Pete's Manifold: Slow and steady!

Yesterday, I got the first cut made. Today, I got the start of runners #2 and 3 mostly done. 

A lovely package came, too. In it was more laser cut flange goodness!

Those are the entry flanges that conform to the T3 twin scroll "standard" from Garrett. I have yet to fit them up to see how exact they are, and as with anything like this, there will need to be some adjusting for everything to fit perfectly together, but they honestly look darn close. Chris, who does this for me does excellent work. If you need flanges done, hit me up and I'll give you his contact info!

So, here's what happened with the pieces I cut yesterday:

I found some really useful hose clamps at Pep Boys when I was shopping for Chrysler crap:

 They are made by Ideal, and yes, they aren't as cheap as normal hose clamps, but, when you don't have to use a tool to tighten them up, they sure are more convenient to use.

I started cutting the straight pipe for the runners:

 The angles look funny because nothing is sitting correctly since I haven't cut he straight section from #3 to fit onto the runner from #2. This is a nice, low angle merge that will flow well and create very little turbulence. Now cutting and shaping that straight leg to fit is going to be monstrously hard to do with the tools I have, but, I will certainly make it happen.

I am going to finish mocking up the #2 and 3 merge and upturn before I handle #1 and 4. Notice the pairing of 2-3 and 1-4. This is the correct way to merge a twin scroll setup, with exhaust pulses 180* off, basically out of phase. When coupled with a twin- or divided-scroll housing on a turbo, this allows for a much more efficient system that will spool faster and allow wilder cam profiles since there is a significant and beneficial increase in the pressure ratio between the intake side and exhaust side of the engine. This is very important since the turbine wheel forms a huge restriction. Nearly anything that can be done to increase the pressure ratio by lowering the exhaust pressure is a very good thing since it allows the engine to breath in more clean, compressed air/fuel mixture, much like a properly built and tuned header. Hmmmmm . . . I wonder where those ideas came from? heh

PVC and Biiiiiiiiig sharpies . . .

Every once in a while, I'll find out how badly I've been stuck under a rock. Case in point: 

The Sharpie Magnum. I was at Home Depot picking up supplies for the next project, and while I was walking through the tool aisle looking for blue Sharpies, I laid eyes upon the biggest, baddest and most awesomest Sharpie I have ever seen! I just had to get one and see what it was like; if it could fulfill my every dream of marker perfection!

In that regard, it isn't and doesn't, but it is certainly super useful. The Chisel tip, as you can see below is really well designed allowing you to mark a HUGE swath, a BIG line or a PRECISE mark just depending on how you hold it. 

If I find out that they make this thing in blue, I'll never buy another type of Sharpie again!

Now, here's a pic of what I was working on today:

I mostly used my camera, file, sharpie, machinist's rule, mini tape measure, a reciprocating saw (off camera at the time) and the PVC bits. The black bag is full of magic, though. It's one of my most useful sets of tools. LOL!

So, what is all the stuff for? Mocking up Pete's twin scroll turbo manifold! If you recall the picture I posted a while back of the really nice looking GT3076R? Well, this is the start of a manifold for that!

Pete and I decided that a Schedule 40 1.25" pipe would be the best bet for the manifold, but, I was doing some math and I found out that 2" schedule 40 pipe has nearly the same CSA (cross sectional area) as two of the 1.25" pipes. Since this is going to be a twin scroll manifold, why not keep the CSA constant after the primary merge? So, that is what I am going to attempt to mock up in PVC, since it is cheap and easy to work. 

Lets get to work! First up, knocking down all the casting ridges on the PVC, as you can see here:

Now you might ask yourself, "Self, why the heck is he bothering doing something as anal retentive as that?" The answer is pretty simple! Taking care of those ridges will allow the fittings to fit flush, in necessary, which will make measuring and fitting more accurate and precise. Granted using PVC isn't exactly the most accurate way to build a template for this, but, I am mostly using it as a good visual aide   an to figure out approximately how many bends and how much pipe I need to buy in order to finish a manifold of this sort. This will ultimately lead to a more succinct design process with less overall headaches, even if some of the dimensions change. This will also allow me to see a real, physical model in 3D, and hopefully will allow me to package the whole thing much tighter as a result, which is a huge concern given how tight the engine bay is of the car this whole mess is going to go in to. 

After I filed down the casting flash, I started making some spacers to hold bits and pieces together:

 I won't be gluing things at all, so I made sure to keep the tolerances pretty tight for these things. Holding a tolerance of under 1/32" with a reciprocating saw is pretty effing good, I'd say. I also cleaned up and deburred the rough cut edges and kept everything as flat as possible.


This is the kind of fitup I am after:

The spacer is nearly perfectly snugged to the cast in edges of the elbow.

Everything fitting together superbly:

The main U is made from one 2" street elbow and one normal elbow.

 The upper part is a 22 1/2"* elbow, which I like very much and may get some in the 1.25" size, also, to keep turns nice and easy for the trickier bits of running the inner (2nd and 3rd cylinder) primaries to their merge. 

Here are the ready to experiment secondary pipes:

 As always, more to come in the next few days! =)

New things and projects to come!

Mike and I went out today to pick up the sheetmetal and some other stuff for his bike. He also dropped off this rear hoop that I will be chopping and fitting into place:

It's not exactly the same width, but I will be taking care of that easily enough. 

Boxes can be fun!

This is certainly not a cheap collection of "presents" inside those boxes, though! 

Garrett GT3076R, .78A/R T3 flanged twin scroll V-band outlet turbo and two TiAL wastegates. I have to say, the fit, finish and precision of the TiAL parts is some of the best I've seen on non-Military grade stuff. EVERYTHING from the fittings to the body fits perfectly and is made superbly from quality materials. I love seeing stuff like that! 

This project is going to be VERY tough. The compressor housing is HUUUUUGE. I need to tuck off of that and all the piping as close to the block as possible while NOT making it impossible to get to all the bolts, fasteners and lines (oil and coolant lines) needed to effectively run this setup correctly to maximum potential. I have some ideas, but, once I get the block mounted and a head in place, I'll be better able to visualize what needs to go where. 

This is my new workbench, a Harbor Freight special for $24.99. 

It is very worth it for the price, even if some of the holes were not tapped and I have to wait to get the rest of my tap and die set from home to finish bolting it together. It is actually fairly sturdy except for the really cheeseball "shelves" they give you. I will be making my own of plywood, using the original "shelves" as a template. 

Not fastened on yet, but perched atop the work surface is this amazingly awesome piece of metal:

I got this vise for free. It is likely older than I am. It had (has) some surface rust that I cleaned up and is not functioning amazingly. It weighs as much as the workbench (maybe more). It is overkill, for sure, and I know that the workbench would tip over if I apply too much torque to something, BUT it will work well enough for what I need it for (mostly to hold stuff while I work on it). There is nothing like a quality vise. =) 

This is why I won't use cheap Chinese turbos made from WTF

Garrett containment testing

Most guys who run cheap turbos really are taking a good amount of risks. One of the ONLY things preventing more nasty crap from happening with these cheap turbos is that the bearings are so poor that they simply prevent the impellers from spinning high enough to reach their failure point, but if they did, I doubt the metal used is of the correct strength to contain that much energy!