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"Built Dam Strong!"
Showing posts with label header fabrication. Show all posts
Showing posts with label header fabrication. Show all posts

22 August 2012

DYNO RESULTS OF MY CUSTOM HEADER!

I spent this evening using the power of the interwebs to remotely dyno tune the car that has my custom header. This was the first time I had done this. It was exciting and annoying at the same time. I couldn't see everything in exactly real time, but, it was a huge step up from just getting a datalog file sent via email. I could see where the engine was in the timing and fuel maps in semi-real-time. This was a huge help to get my brain wrapped around what needed to be changed. At the end of the evening, we ended up extracting over 10WHP on an already potent package that had been tuned via feedback and datalog. Given my familiarity with this engine, the final timing curve was only off from my guess by at most 2* at WOT.

Here is what I can say about the engine:
It is a DOHC D-series. It has my custom header on it. (See THIS LINK for more info, and also search around for more pics of the thing and design theory.) I tuned it. The engine has more power to gain, especially if it is revved higher. The engine is extremely easy to tune with no stupid peaks, no issues. The AFRs are extremely consistent and it pulls very cleanly through the RPM.


Rather than focus on the numbers, look at how darned flat the torque curve is and how close to linear the power curve is:


YES it is a crappy copy. No, I can't an won't post more of the chart. 

The scaling of the torque curve is also wrong, due to an issue with the dyno coming out of sync with the RPM. The dyno computer thought the car was revving to 9200RPM when the team was doing pulls from 2500-7500ish RPM.

Also, this was done on a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer. I mention that for the people who know about them. Those that don't and obsess about numbers, you can make fun of the WHP, but I will take this as a huge validation of the general design of my own headers. I will take feedback from this team and improve on what I can do and make things better than before. 

I have been smiling with this success the whole evening, eager to share the results with people who have known about this project, and now I share with you!

19 June 2012

Long Weekend Update

Friday

I spent most of Friday pulling the rockers off my friend's minivan, but I did manage to get some work done on my Father's day present:


What is it? It's a charcoal chimney made from stainless steel! If you aren't familiar with charcoal chimneys, they are for starting your charcoal without lighter fluid. You crumple up newspaper loosely in the bottom and place some charcoal on top. You light the newspaper from the bottom and it gets the charcoal going without using any nasty tasting lighter fluid. It also gets the charcoal ready faster, which is a really good thing for charcoal. The above pic is as it arrived to me. It came with two halves which were bent to fit together and the handle, which is resting on top, hanging over the side.

In the following picture, I took a closeup on the protective film used on the shiny side of the stainless. Good stainless shouldn't come all scratched up, because of the film. The laser can cut right through it and it is sticky enough to stay on even when the base metal is bent. The holes are for plug welding, or if you wanted to, bolting through the side of the chimney. I will be plug welding. 


I didn't rotate this next pic, oops. The details on the chimney are really well thought out an executed. The thin slot you see in the pic is cut to allow a tab in the bottom plate (yes: "Insert tab A into slot B") to facilitate welding the bottom plate in. 


The sides are even made with tabs that fit together to help located the edges!


Here is a good closeup of the edge and how fine a cut you get from the laser:


The long piece you see in the pic below was formerly joining the two angled pieces:


Holding a few pounds of charcoal in a chimney that weighs another few pounds is hard when all you have is a flat handle, so I cut the flat out and will replace that with a wooden handle.

I smoothed the cut pieces with my sander:


Then clamped them together for drilling:


Matching holes is important for things to look straight:


In testing my "router speed controller:"


I've found that it works to a degree. It is useful for normal twist drill bits, but have found that it does not actually allow "full torque at all RPMs" as advertised. For the money I paid, it is worth it. I used it to drill holes well enough in the stainless of the handle, and that one thing paid for itself. I don't have cheap drill bits. Keeping them sharp is worth spending a little extra time and money making sure they stay sharp and useful.

I also picked up some cheap sheet pliers from Harbor Freight:


The fit and finish on the smaller pliers was abysmal. I had to file some of the nastiest edges I've seen on a tool:


If I hadn't done that, the edges would rip any metal to pieces when bending! The larger one is actually decent enough, though, and didn't require any work.

I did some quick layout work, as well:


Then I marked some quick lines to make the piece more manageable:


The thick angle was used to clamp the sheet instead of clamping directly onto the sheet, since that style clamp would bend and warp the sheet if used directly on the sheet:


That wrapped up the day on Friday. 

Saturday

I spent a bunch of time in the morning cleaning. I hadn't done that for over a week, and things were jsut too cluttered. I broke down cardboard boxes, organized errant tools, cleaned off my workbenches and swept. I changed the gas line to my TIG welder to a longer one so I could move it about better. I changed a burned out bulb on the halogen shop light that I use for additional lighting. It was a really productive morning and early afternoon.

I was anticipating Dave's arrive in the morning, but he was delayed by a stubborn woman. Then he hit traffic. Then the Ferd Exploder he was driving started to overheat. Badly. He called me after he had pulled over into a parking lot where just after he had pulled in, the entire front of the car poofed into a coolant mushroom cloud of doom. I ran over as soon as I could with what coolant I had. We both figured it had just gotten low due to the fact that his dad thought that the coolant level was the stain in the overflow, not the actual coolant level! ARG! After pouring in the about half a gallon of coolant mix I had, I drove him to a gas station where we got another gallon that the engine just swallowed without showing up in the overflow. (The overflow is also the fill point on that and many more modern vehicles, which is really annoying as I think that makes bleeding the cooling system much harder than it should be.) Once we dumped that gallon in, we saw we needed more coolant! How low was this thing? We drove it to the nearest gas station and started poking around and found this:


That, dear readers, is a PLASTIC thermostat housing that is glued together. And split at the seams. Seams meant to stay together so coolant doesn't puke out of the engine. Ugh . . . 

By this time, it was getting on towards parts store closing times, so we hoped on the phones and started calling around. Not even the dang Ferd stealership had the part in stock. We had to get it towed as the gas station attendants (this is New Jersey were you are not lawfully allowed to pump your own gas, for fear you might blow up the gas station  . . . but I can't complain too much since the gas is waaay cheaper than in NY) were getting anxious with us in the lot pulling parts off a car that really wasn't going anywhere. We got it towed back to my "shop" by some really great guys who were actually some of the best tow truck operators I've seen in the civilian world. Dave's dad got a hold of the part, but that left Dave mostly stranded in New Jersey without a ride home. So I drove him home, but not until after I welded the box of the charcoal chimney together so I could at the very least show it to my dad the next day! I wasn't going to miss Father's Day for anything short of death or dismemberment. 

I drove Dave back home and was greeted by his appreciative parents with a steak, fresh corn on the cob, mashed taters and apple pie a la mode ice cream, and a bottle of 12 year old rum (which I will open on my birthday)! Talk about pretty darn cool. It made the drive to Brooklyn totally worth it. 


Sunday

Starting charcoal with a chimney is pretty easy, as long as you aren't a goober who packs the newspaper so tight it chokes off airflow to the charcoal and you get a smokey mess . . . I wonder who did that?

Here is the new chimney next to the old one that was only a couple of years old:


I do happen to like the heat shield on the old one, but, as you can see, that thing is nearly rusted out and on its very last legs. This new one should last several lifetimes!

Here is one of the better welds:


Some of the welds weren't as pretty as I would have liked, but, at least they are solid and I didn't smoke the stainless out of the metal. heh

Here is a closeup of the handle/heat shield of the old chimney:


The handle I am going to install on the new one has much shorter legs (which is better for supporting the massive amount of charcoal this thing can prepare), which is really going to need a heat shield of some sort so fingers don't get cooked when moving the chimney around, or even dumping the coals out.

Action shot:


This is what I was cooking:


Everyone loved them! I just did a simple marinade of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sea salt and granulated garlic. I mixed it up and brushed it on, letting everything sit while I got the charcoal going. 

I am a firm believer in not messing with the meat. The more you poke at it, the tougher it gets. Leave it the heck alone! If you don't have a meat thermometer, get used to the texture of the meat as it hits different doneness points. The last thing you should do is cut the meat to check doneness, but as a last resort, make as small a cut in the thickest region of the meat and if you see that the thickest part is not quite to the degree you like, pull the darn meat then! The easiest way to overcook is to forget that what you pull off your heat will still have enough heat to keep cooking itself for minutes after you pull it off the direct heating source.

Also, LET YOUR MEAT REST! Never carve meat straight off the heat. The juices will pour out and you will be left with dry, tough meat. Wait at least 5 minutes before carving. It will still be plenty warm.

This has been your BBQ PSA for the day! LOL!

Monday

Today is not technically part of the weekend, but since we worked on stuff that was supposed to get worked on this weekend, I might as well include it in this update.

Dave had his calculus class in the morning, which meant I could sleep in a bit and also mow the lawn at my grandmother's place that is generally what is considered "home." I got all that done, showered and headed out to meet Dave at his girl's parents' place since he dropped off a motorcycle that he had recently finish doing some work on.

Aside from Google Maps on my phone being abso-tarded-ly stupid, everything went fairly smoothly with the trip out to the "shop" until . . . we roll into the driveway and as soon as Dave sees the Exploder he says "I forgot the keys . . . " DOH!

We didn't waste the time, though. He called his dad, who agreed to ride out and bring the keys and we got busy replacing the thermostat housing with the new one, which was not forgotten. That actually didn't take too long so we moved on to much more fun stuff!

Let the motorcycle work commence!

Here is a lovely picture of Dave's work increasing the ID of a SS fender washer with an 1/8" carbide bit:

After a good while, he ended up with this fit:


Excellent work!

The OD needed to be taken down to match the exhaust port dimensions. Dave trimmed down the OD in the bandsaw and then came up with a GREAT idea on how to speed up AND increase safety when cleaning up the OD of he washer to the correct size:


After a long while at the sander, he got this:



I'm definitely impressed with his work. It is accurate and the fitment is very good, which, with stainless welding, is absolutely critical for solid welds that are also aesthetically pleasing, not that anyone will see the welds on these bits. heh

I wasn't being a slacker, either! I laid out the final piece of the seat pan, which took a while, especially since I had to make a radius tool:


That worked fantastically well! I need to spend a some time on the sander to clean up the radius, but, the piece, as it currently sits is really good:


I used the same trick for the radius on the seat pan top to mark out the "hoop" that will get welded to the radius to finish the seat pan off:


Here are the two pieces superimposed on each other to check if they are within tolerance:


They are! 



 They are! Some more sanding and filing of the main piece and everything should be good to go!

Tomorrow I am going to do some work on Terry's new truck so it can pass inspection, and then I am going to concentrate on finishing the seat pan for Mike. I have some additional bracketry to finish, so that the seat and battery tray can be secured safely yet easily removed for sercice.


Geez, that was a long update. I hope you enjoy!

08 June 2012

Fooled you! (And me!)

I thought I was done, but, I always give things a once over before packing up for shipping, and I totally spaced on the inside of the runners:


That would have been embarrassing to send to a customer . . . So, I cleaned up the runners with a grinding stone and cartridge roll:


Here are all the pieces:


My customer is going to weld the megaphone on once the header is fitted in the car. Lots of stuff has been moved around in that car, so I thought it best to ship things separately than to force him to cut it apart to reposition things to fit. I also had to trim down the exhaust extension to fit in the box:


Packed up and ready to ship in the box the materials came in! It should arrive on Monday at the latest and get installed on Tuesday after being coated and wrapped. I am looking forward to hearing how it performs and sounds on the car. 

Other than that, I have a bunch of non-work related updates that I will have to leave for another time, if I ever get around to them. The next few days are going to be weird and crazy. More work is lining up, which is good, but I have to finish the projects I've already got. =) This is a good place to be!

07 June 2012

I finished my first complete header today!

First things first . . . A shop isn't a shop without good tunes. For the past few months, I've been listening to muzak (I generally listen to mostly bad music) while working via my lap top or my cell phone, neither of which are particularly pleasing to the ears or clearly audible over my TIG welder's fan that is constantly on. (The on thing that really irks me about that welder. heh) I made sure I got up early and loaded up my speakers and amp:


I've had this stuff for years! The speakers are Alesis near-field monitors. The boxes are HEAVY and ported. I drive them with an Alesis 150W amp (most of the time, sometimes the 500W version I got for subwoofer duty . . . ) and feed them through a normal 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. At times, I've been accused of having the subwoofer turned up too loud . . . when I don't even have one. The speakers are very efficient to pretty low frequencies, and I really do tend to prefer fabric tweeters since I have a tendency to be overly sensitive to the treble area. It was such a joy to listen to polka (yes, really, at least part of the time) and other music while working!

So yesterday, I left off with this:


It was tacked up and ready for full welding. After fiddling around a bit trying to figure out the best way to position the header for welding, I got an idea. The stock exhaust nuts, while very robust, are rather large and get in the way of the TIG torch. Why not figure out a way to reduce the profile of the bolts that were holding the header to the jig? So, I did! Below is a pic of the M6 threaded rod, washers and nuts (all stainless!):


The stock exhaust stud is an M8 size, and in the following pic you can see the clearance difference rather easily:


This made a good difference in clearance and ease of welding around the tubes. 

Here you can see the header mounted on the c-channel jig:


This makes for a much easier time of welding everything since you can move the jig and header around to make it easier to weld the difficult spots! Even so, I was getting stuck in a few places as I still have the long back cap in place:

A bit more shuffling around easily took care of that last little bit, and that was no where near the hardest part that I had to weld. 

I think this is after everything was welded, as I didn't get many "in process shots" since I was busy working over under around and through the primaries to get everything welded:

In the afternoon, new goodies arrived! I ordered some Norton sanding belts and Mirka stick on discs. The Norton belt is likely coming off soon because of this:


It is terribly ironic that the cheap belt that came with the thing tracks perfectly strait while the high quality (Norton makes many of my favorite abrasive products!) belt just rams straight into the side, creating a lot of unnecessary friction and slowing the whole thing down.

The next items to show off are the router speed controller, which works, at least with no load on the motor and a digital optical tachometer. I could test the tach out today as I didn't realize that the thing took 9V batteries, and I have none of those. 


The tach works optically. It requires a piece of reflective tape mounted onto the rotating thing you want to measure the RPMs of, and then you point the tach at the thing and it simply counts the tape. I mounted the tape directly onto the the chuck:


Once the header was welded up and I took the collector off and put it back on (what a pain . . . ) to verify everything was fitting decently enough, I needed to find a way to mount the springs. I came up with a brilliant idea to use this:


The twin of the free bed frame bracket I used to mount this:


To make 4 of these:


Which got sanded down to match, looking like this:


I cleaned up the flat sides, which I should have done when the material was in a large, flat piece as that would have taken much less time, and had two pairs of retaining spring tabs! I didn't even have to drill any holes!

I got the header mounted back onto the c-channel jig ( take apart, put back together, ad naseum!) and figured why not make the new low-profile studs permanent bolts:


I simply carefully melted the threaded rod to the nut and now I've got a perfectly sized nut that will make dropping in and securing things to he jig much easier! 

Here are the 4 finished tabs:


I trimmed the ends of the springs back a bit to make mounting slightly easier without taking the whole thing off:


While the header was on the head, I had marked off where I wanted the tabs to be, so I got them ready for welding:


Trying to tack with those magnetic triangles was weird. The magnetic field was definitely distorting the arc! It was so very weird. But, I managed to get a tack on there and then take the magnetic holder away and then weld the tabs on solidly:



Every once in a while, something weird happens that is still pretty cool. I wanted to keep the tabs 2.5" apart, but check out what the second set of tabs measured to when I just placed them by eye!


Dead on! OH YEAH! LOL!

Here is the final shot of the evening:


DONE! (Almost)

I forgot to clean up the inside of the ports from the head. That is going to be the first thing I do in the morning, then, finish packing it up and get it to the FedEx facility! YAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Another ironic thing: most of my pretty welds on the primaries are on the backside of the tubes. LOL! 

I learned so much today doing this! I can't wait to move forward and tackle more challenges, and I already have those ready and waiting for me! =)